Between Cities and Coastlines

My first response when my fiancee suggested a trip to Croatia was, “Where is that?” Sure, I had heard of it, but I likely couldn’t point to it on a map. Fortunately, I was about to learn what an incredible destination it is.

Copenhagen

When booking this trip, we had the option for a long layover in Copenhagen. Normally a long layover sitting in the airport is brutal, but if it’s long enough, it’s a great opportunity to explore a new city. This layover gave us about 10 hours between flights, so it was time to explore. A 15-minute train ride from the airport took us to the city center where we found a souvenir shop to store our bags and began to see what Copenhagen had to offer.

The age and beauty of the architecture in European towns is always striking. The details of the stonework and grandeur of the palaces and churches are just not seen in modern buildings. To begin, we found a small café for breakfast and people-watching as the city began to come alive for the day. Being so dependent on cars in the U.S., it’s great to see people hop on a bike to ride to work, although it may not be so charming in winter. Next, a short walk to Christiansborg Palace allowed us to wander through an 800-year-old palace that once housed royals. Today, you will find the Danish Parliament, Supreme Court and Ministry of State on-site. Again, everywhere you look you see such a level of detail in the architecture and stonework that it seems impossible that it is this old.

As we continued through downtown Copenhagen, we stumbled upon Nyhavn. If you have seen pictures of the city, you’ve likely seen this neighborhood. It’s a vibrant neighborhood teeming with art galleries, restaurants and bakeries framed by gabled row houses in bright colors. A walk along the canal in Nyhavn is a great way to see the city. After some more unguided wandering, we headed back to the airport for the flight to Split, Croatia.

Split

The options for well-known hotel brands like Hilton or Marriott were limited, so we took a chance and booked a small boutique hotel next to Diocletian’s Palace. This turned out to be the perfect location. Traffic can be rough in a city designed centuries before the automobile, so if you can get yourself within walking distance, your stay will be much more enjoyable.

A walk through Diocletian’s Palace is like stepping back in time. Built in the third century as a retirement palace for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, this palace is more like a small city. The 200-plus limestone buildings are built with stone from the nearby Brac Island. You’ll see this beautiful limestone throughout Croatia. Several square kilometers give you countless alleyways to explore the history this city has to offer.

One of the more prominent structures is the Cathedral of Saint Dominus. The cathedral, originally built as a mausoleumfor Diocletius, was later dedicated to Saint Dominus. This was a victory for Christians, as Diocletius mercilessly persecuted and killed approximately 150,000 Christians. Saint Dominus was one of those beheaded by the Emperor. The ornate chapels are a sight to behold, and you even have the option to walk to the top of the tower. A word of warning, though: you must be in decent shape and not afraid of heights because there are a lot of stairs. However, the top of the tower offers a bird’s-eye view of the historic city.

As we departed from St. Dominus, we wandered into the Peristyle. This area, once the central square, is a gathering place in town. In the evenings you may find musicians performing free concerts or a street theatre performance as people enjoy an espresso or glass of wine.

There are some crowds and tours during midday when cruise ships may dock, but early morning or evening walks are the best times to explore. From restaurants to cocktail lounges to shops, everything we needed was located within walking distance. As always, the best spots are found just off the main square. Pro tip: try the cevapi if you get a chance. Similar to a kebab, it’s the local specialty.

Hvar Island

After a few days of exploring Split, we departed for Hvar Island. A random Instagram reel put this on our radar, and we are glad it did. After an hour-long
ferry ride, we landed on this breathtaking island and didn’t want to leave. With a fortunate Airbnb booking right in the main town of Hvar near the port, everything we needed was just a short walk away. Hvar is one of those places with stone streets, old limestone buildings and exceptional cleanliness that makes you feel like you are in a movie. Everywhere you look, a fantastic photo opportunity appears.

Much like Split, you will find a small central square that becomes the heartbeat of the town. From the central square, where you will find the 17th century Cathedral of Saint Stephens, you can walk along the water or get lost in the alleys discovering new shops and restaurants. If you happen to be a fan of the Netflix show “Somebody Feed Phil,” you may recognize a few places. Phil stopped for dinner at Konoba Menego, a great local spot, and for gelato at aRoma. You will find a line most times at aRoma, but trust me, it’s worth the wait.

For those interested in nightlife, there is a vibrant party scene with several night clubs. We tend to be in bed before most of those parties get started. I’d prefer an affogato by the water and some people watching.

After exploring the main town on foot, it was time for an adventure. A quick walk will lead to ATV rentals, which is a must. You can rent cars on the island too, but the ATV will get you anywhere you need on the island and other places a car cannot. Hvar is full of scenic beaches, but we believe the crown jewel is Dubovica. A few miles out of town, there is a pull-off and sign that leads down a mountain trail to one of the world’s most beautiful beaches. It feels secluded, although there is a small beach bar and a few felines milling about as well.

This beach is the perfect place to turn off your devices and unplug. A secluded beach, clear water and a laid-back vibe is what you will find in Dubovica.

With the clear water, it was a must for us to snorkel. Around the island there are a variety of fish, sea urchins and the coolest animal we spotted—an octopus. You can get lost for hours exploring the ocean wildlife. Watch your step, though; those sea urchins have spikes.

Some other must do’s on the island include a visit to the historic town of Stari Grad and a stop at a local winery. Stari Grad is a picturesque, sleepy town and a great option for a lunch stop. The true hidden gem of the island was the Lacman Family Winery. The guides and locals will tell you the winery to visit is Tomic Winery, but nestled on top of a mountain overlooking the crystal blue waters of the Adriatic Sea, you can enjoy a bottle of rosé and a charcuterie board as you take in the scenery from this family-owned venue. We met a great couple from Canada, had some good conversation and received some helpful travel tips.

There are a couple of other options you may consider while on the island. For one, you can rent a boat and see the island from the water. That may be one of the best ways to see Hvar. Word of warning, though: you will also have to hire a captain as they
require a captain’s license to operate a boat. This can be a pricey option but, depending on your budget, a good one. You can also find beach clubs such as Hula Hula or Carpe Diem, but like much of Europe, you will pay a premium at these spots.

Hvar has something for everyone. From Michelin star restaurants to pizza by the slice and small local bars to high-end cocktail lounges, there is a great mix of options. If you are a seafood lover, you’ll find great fresh catch options.

One last recommendation for Hvar would be to visit the rooftop lounge at the Adriana Hotel. This place has the best view of the harbor and is a great place to have lunch or a cocktail. The balcony is beautiful and relaxing.

Dubrovnik

Our final stop on this trip was a last-minute addition. The ferry for our planned trip to Brac Island was canceled due to weather, so we pivoted and decided to make the drive to Dubrovnik. In all honesty, it was further than we wanted to drive. It was a six-hour round trip to get back for our flight, but it was a great chance to see the country. We drove through the Biokovo mountain range and along the coast. We also noticed countless roadside stands where you could buy vegetables, sauces and jams. We ended up stopping for what turned out to be a top-notch jar of pasta sauce. After the three-hour trip, we finally made it to our destination.

Dubrovnik is probably the most recognizable town in Croatia. “Game of Thrones” fans may recognize it as King’s Landing and, if you are inclined, you can tour many of the spots that are filmed in the series. Old town Dubrovnik is a beautiful medieval town that is certainly worth seeing, but beware: the popularity of the show has caused tourism to explode. It will be crowded, and you have to be patient to get around.

The most common activity is a tour of the city wall. You can walk atop the wall that runs around the old city, and it gives you a great chance to see old fortifications, a stunning sea view and the beautiful old orange slate roofs you will recognize from TV. For a less well-known treat, look for a hole in the city wall on the seaside. If you pay close enough attention, you will find Buza Bar, which translates to hole in the wall. Down some steps you will find a cliffside bar to enjoy a beer or wine and appreciate the beauty.

If you bring a swimsuit, the stairs will lead to the sea, and if you are adventurous, you can try some cliffside diving. It’s cash only, so bring some euros. If you break away from old town, you’ll see the crowds fade away and find a wonderful restaurant named Fratello’s. Whether you want a full dinner or just a snack, they will take great care of you. After the heat and the crowds of old town Dubrovnik, an Aperol Spritz and a plate of olives on the patio at Fratello’s overlooking the Adriatic is just what you need to unwind.

We didn’t know what to expect when we decided to venture to Croatia, but we quickly fell in love with it. It’s clean and beautiful, and the people were warm and welcoming. We thrived on suggestions from locals and were pleasantly surprised to learn most of the people speak flawless English. We’ve been fortunate enough to explore several places, and would have to put Croatia at the top of the favorites list.