By Rachel Coffman
Meet any native of Lisbon, Portugal, and they will quickly recall November 1, 1755. Known as All Saints’ Day, that is the day Lisbon experienced a sequence of three earthquakes ranging from 8.5 to 9.1 in magnitude, one of which was one of the deadliest in history. While the earthquake brought destruction through both a tsunami and fires, one area remained untouched from the devastation: Alfama.
With its labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways and medieval charm, the Alfama district is where my 10-day Portuguese excursion began. I arrived shortly after 7 a.m. as the morning haze rose from the Tagus River, exposing the beautiful colors painted across the city. From the pastel walls and terra cotta roofs to the intricate hand-painted Portuguese tiles, every corner of Lisbon is a work of art.
There are four things one must experience in Lisbon: pastries, vinho verde, fado and getting lost. The Portuguese are probably most famous for their pastries, and the pastel de nata, a custard tart created by Catholic monks in the Belém district in the 18th century, is the most famous. The best pastries can be found at the original Pastéis de Belém, and the trick is to go directly to a table where you will be served instead of waiting in the long queue outside.
I walked this metropolis with no plan because in Lisbon it’s best to find what isn’t in the guidebooks and discover it in your own way. The city is experiencing a rebirth, thanks to the expansive growth of overseas tourism that began in 2010. The best vantage point of the city can be found at the Castle São Jorge. The climb to the top is steep and is best followed with a chilled bottle of vinho verde, a Portuguese wine. This wine is incredibly crisp and light on the palate, and it was the perfect accompaniment to the hot July day I spent exploring this capital city.
As the day’s heat dissipated and more people ventured out of hiding from the inferno of the Iberian summer, the city changed from a vibrant, artistic expression to an illuminated show of light. This was my first trip to Lisbon, and I spent the first night enjoying the amazing views from the rooftop of Hotel Mundial. The second night was dedicated to discovering the musical wonders of fado.
The soulfulness and melancholy of Portuguese folk music was one of my favorite discoveries on this trip. Translating to mean fate, fado is the musical expression of longing characterized by a central vocalist accompanied by two 12-string guitars. In the dimly lit room in the Bairrio Alto district where I listened to the show, the language barrier was not an issue. I understood the meaning through the true artistry of feeling the tones of the music. As I looked around the audience, the performers had the sole attention of the room. There were no distractions from the art. It was a rare moment in a world where attention spans are decreasing to see an entire room focused for a moment in time.
A short drive outside of the city—the perfect day trip from Lisbon—lies the town of Sintra. Surrounded by palaces, ancient castles and stunning gardens, the region is a sanctuary for the royals, and its landscape—lying at the edge of the Sintra Mountains on the edge of the coast—looks as though it has come straight out of a fairytale. Most notable was the National Palace of Pena, which is separated into three different exteriors. It emerges from the hills looking like three different castles. Built in the 19th century, King Ferdinand II wanted the facade of his summer home to reflect an opera. A ruby red clock tower, purple-tiled wing and yellow minaret blend together several different styles of architecture. The key to visiting this palace is to order your tickets beforehand and not wait in the two-hour line for interior viewing. The palace is much more spectacular on the outside, and this will give you more time to explore the other four palaces in the area.
After visiting Sintra, there is no doubt in my mind that Portugal hosts a magical element, and I understand fully why it was the key inspiration for J.K. Rowling when she was writing the “Harry Potter” book series. Rowling moved to Porto, Portugal, while drafting the first book and borrowed sights, culture and history of the medieval city to create the book’s theme.
Porto, which sits on the mouth of the Douro River, has a more authentic feel than the southern city of Lisbon. The architecture of Porto feels completely untapped, and the city boasts its 18th- and 19th-century charm like a painting come to life. I arrived midday by train at the São Bento Railway Station where the walls boasted a display of 20,000 azulejo- tiled murals sitting intact from 1915. The composition of the art tells stories of battle, transport and ways of life. It was a perfect welcome to the city.
The sun shone perfectly on Ribeira, the old district of the city. Tile-covered buildings boasted colors of yellow, blue and red. The tiles in Porto had more dimension than those in Lisbon with raised flowers and ornamental designs. A walk along the Douro riverfront is a must with charming cafés situated to view the many port wine cellars across the river. Although I have been to many European metropolises, Porto felt old-world European to me, not yet touched by commercialism and embracing its individuality.
Every vantage point in Porto is remarkable. A Douro River cruise that boards at the riverfront is worth an hour of your time. For 15 euros, you ride on an old rabelo boat, which is the type of boat that once transported the port wine from the Douro Valley to the cellars in the city. The cruise takes guests under the six arched bridges that connect the Ribeira and Gaia sections of the city. This is the best way to see the city before partaking in a port wine tasting.
It would be unfair to write about Portugal and not mention the seafood. The gastronomy of this country heavily relies on the items that come from the sea, and frankly, it was the best seafood I have ever had. From scarlet shrimp to clams glazed in a white wine sauce, the freshness was exhibited in every bite. Cod, a fish maybe not as popular in the Americas, is a main staple in the cuisine. Bolinhos de Bacalhau, or codfish cakes, are Portugal’s version of the hushpuppy. The most interesting of the native Portuguese dishes was Porto’s Francesinha. This Portuguese sandwich puts a triple-layer burger to shame. The sandwich is a Jenga-type structure with layers of bread, sausage, cured ham, steak and melted cheese covered in a tawny port-based sauce. It was delicious and recommended to be shared.
Porto held a different vibe than Lisbon: it had a more eclectic feel. The public art found along many of the buildings is tucked elegantly into the lines of the architecture so as to add to the beauty rather than ruin the history. There are many hidden treasures among the city. One of the most notable is the Church of St. Francis. The external Gothic structure looks like any other, but the Baroque-style interior décor is a dazzling display of woodwork covered in gold leaf.
As my time in this country ended, I knew it would not be the last time I would visit this wonderful place. Portugal stole a piece of my heart, and as I left that magical country, I didn’t experience the same sadness that I will never see it again that I often feel when my visit to a new place ends. Lisbon is one of those places I know I will experience repeatedly in my lifetime,
as is the opulent yet humble city of Porto. There was so much I did not get to do on this trip, like visit the wine-producing region in the Douro Valley or discover the beaches of the Algarve coast. An incredibly warm and inviting country, Portugal has a uniqueness all its own, as well as a charm I hope can survive its growing tourism.
