By Dawn Nolan
As a grain-to-glass distillery, Smooth Ambler Spirits, located in Maxwelton, WV, combines local mountain water, regionally sourced corn and wheat and clean air in an ideal climate to produce fine, handcrafted vodka, gin and whiskey. “We hand-select our grains, bring them to the distillery whole and grind them ourselves,” explains John Little, vice president and head distiller. “Then, the spent grain, or stillage, is picked up by a local farmer and fed to his livestock.” This cyclic process allows Smooth Ambler to maintain a hands-on approach and preserve relationships with their suppliers.
John Little and Tag Galyean, owners of Smooth Ambler Spirits.
Little founded Smooth Ambler in 2009 alongside his father-in-law, renowned designer Tinsley Azariah Galyean, Jr., or Tag for short. “We had a mission,” Little states. “We wanted to create a business that took advantage of the resources of our location—including the wonderful people—and promote that business worldwide. We looked at all sorts of ideas, and then Tag found an article in Time magazine about the craft distilling industry.”
The prospective business venture seemed to fit Galyean’s criteria, too. “My desire was to produce a world-class consumer product in West Virginia that is made by West Virginians and sell it globally with lots of prestige and visibility for West Virginia, make a profit, employ good local folks and have a nice clubhouse where I could hang out with a younger generation,” he explains. “Distilling and aging legal spirits of quality became the most credible choice.”
Deciding to plant their roots in Greenbrier County was also an easy choice. “As our national director of Sales and Marketing, John Foster, is fond of saying, ‘We didn’t choose West Virginia, it chose us,’” says Little. “This is where we live. We want the people of the community—and West Virginia as a whole—to be proud of what we are doing here.”
As for the name, it pays homage to Galyean’s father. “Dad saw his first motorcar in Low Gap, NC when he was 16,” he says. “At that time, a premium ride was a smooth ambling horse. During his early years in the car business, manufacturers were trying to create reliable comfort that would replace the ambling standard with a smooth motorcar ride. It took a while, and the roads were poor. To me, the term should be personified, and Dad in the middle of the last century was a true smooth ambler. His 1950s picture greets you when you enter the visitors’ side of the distillery. I think his watching over this adventure helps us make good decisions every day with humor and grace. Also, Mother was a smooth ambler, too, and I have always fancied a good horse.”
In preparation for their launch, the men attended workshops through Michigan State University’s Artisan Distilling Program, received first-hand experience at a friend’s distillery in Spokane, WA and thoroughly researched the industry, including state and federal regulations. “We also asked questions of every person—master distillers from other companies; equipment, grain and yeast suppliers and industry veterans—that would take our calls,” describes Little. “The saying ‘it takes a village to raise a child’ is appropriate. It takes a village to start a distillery.”
Even though Little admits he had no prior experience in business or spirits before this endeavor, his enthusiasm and drive is evident to those around him. “John is a natural in this business and engages the best and most experienced distillers to coach him,” praises Galyean. “In my opinion, John Little is the next best guy—a whiskey rock star.”
Galyean, on the other hand, is an established entrepreneur who grew up in the car business and now owns TAG Studio in Lewisburg. His design portfolio is made up of an extensive list of luxury locations like The Greenbrier, The Broadmoor, Casa Palmero at Pebble Beach and even Smooth Ambler itself. “Using practical, traditional forms and contemporary efficiencies of systems and materials, we have created a welcoming symbol of who we are and a proud place to work,” says Galyean. “Of course, we had lots of physical requirements regarding location, permitting and utilities, as well. We anticipated having parties and special events at the Stillhouse. Our tasting room with windows on the production area is popular with folks passing through, as well as a spot where some locals take a break.”
Smooth Ambler Spirits’ current product list consists of Whitewater Vodka, Greenbrier Gin, Barrel Aged Greenbrier Gin, Old Scout, Old Scout Rye and Yearling Bourbon Whiskey. “Our recipes have been mostly trial and error,” says Little. “We have had some pointers from some consultants. We’ve made hundreds of recipes, and now, we make seven to eight. That’s not to say we don’t try to improve, because we are always trying to make improvements on yield and flavor, but we are conscious on maintaining consistency so our customers stay happy.”
Since opening their doors in 2010, Smooth Ambler’s production has doubled its sales every year. It currently sells its products in 35 states and five markets overseas. “Getting products into stores is fairly easy,” says Little. “Getting it to leave the shelves is the hard part. We’ve been lucky to work with good distributors and retailers, and we work hard to visit the markets and spend time with both of them. We want them to know our story, to know us personally and to educate them on our products. Market visits are hugely important.” Smooth Ambler has increased production capacity once before and will do it again this fall. “That means more fermenters, a new still, more buildings and, most importantly, more staff,” adds Little.
In less than five years, Smooth Ambler Spirits has garnered numerous honors and distinctions from industry professionals and organizations including Anthony Dias Blue and The Tasting Panel magazine, Beverage Tasting Institute, San Francisco World Spirits Competition, New York International Spirits Competition, Wine Enthusiast magazine and the American Distilling Institute. “Awards and recognition for honest quality is very important to us and to our future,” says Galyean. “Recognition by the folks that ‘know’ means everything to us and grows our business.”
The success has not come without challenges. “Our federal permit was 149 pages long and took 99 days to issue,” says Little. “With that said, the feds and the State of West Virginia have been good to us all the way. It’s just a lot of regulations to understand and stay current on.”
“Competition is also fierce in the world of spirits. It’s a lot of work because the ‘big boys’ don’t really want newcomers in the market,” explains Galyean. “But, they can’t compete with our hand-crafted quality, and they don’t always embrace our honest representation. Honesty, quality and persistence are our strategy for success.”
Little doesn’t mind sharing his knowledge and experience with others, either. He’s allowed fledgling distillers to apprentice at Smooth Ambler. “We do it because we want those future distillers to learn from our mistakes,” he explains. “The industry needs good people making good products. I don’t want them to fail or make bad products. That makes the entire industry look bad.”
For Galyean, however, the most rewarding aspect is the stories he hears from those around him. “What means the most to me is the pride of a fellow West Virginian telling me, ‘I was in Napa Valley last week, and the best restaurant there was serving your hooch. I couldn’t believe it and told them that Maxwelton was just up the road from where I lived.’ He was beaming with pride to tell that story. The appreciation of West Virginians, wherever they live, who are proud of Smooth Ambler and support us is very rewarding.”
Those who want to see and experience the art of Smooth Ambler’s production first-hand can tour the distillery on Fridays and Saturdays. “For guests visiting outside of normal tour hours, we are more than happy to tell them the story of Smooth Ambler Spirits and how we came to be,” says Little. “Right now, we get about 100 visitors a week. We often hear, ‘You guys are the best kept secret in Greenbrier County.’ We’re working hard to change that. We want to be the worst kept secret!”
