By Katie Allie
These are my stories from the road and hard-won guidance from a thoughtful traveler. If I’m making you curious about getting lost and finding the good stuff in this great big world we all share, then I’m doing something right.
Have you ever met someone and clicked so instantly with them that you transitioned seamlessly into deep conversation like you’ve known them your whole life? That was how I met Laura Tibaquirá, pronounced L-how-rah Tee-bah-keer-AH, age 29. In true fashion, she sashayed into my language class in Portugal somewhere between a day and a week late, and as fate would have it, she sat down next to me. The rest, owing to her easy laugh and genuine Colombian warmth, is history. Laura was in Portugal for a few months after living and working in Australia, where I should point out she also learned to speak fluent, perfect English. She’s smart, having worked for the United Nations, and continues today to pursue a career helping others from her current Brussels, Belgium, locale.
Laura
In the weeks that followed our introduction, we had lunches and late nights together. One day, she spent four hours in my tiny Lisbon kitchen, standing on a stool to stir a pot full of beans to make me a traditional Colombian feast. I will always humbly assert that I consider a shared meal the great unifier and equalizer the world over. More than a few bottles of wine were also shared that day, along with stories from our travels and our lives back in our native countries.
I had a lot of questions for her about Colombia, a country I heard a lot of press about in the 1990s, almost none of it being good. More recently, however, I’ve been hearing a lot of positive things happening there: safe tourism, peace accords, vibrant culture, beaches, incredible food, countryside to make even this West Virginia native light up and more. Colombia has a lot to be proud of, and the time to see it, I’m firmly convinced, is now. It is my hope that your interest in Colombia is piqued, but more importantly I hope you will make an effort to talk to people—especially ones who may have a different vantage point on the world than you. We often have more in common than we may think and wonderfully different ways of looking at things. Here are some things I’ve learned from Laura.
How many languages do you speak?
Spanish, English and Portuguese. Trying to add French to the list, though.
Tell me about your childhood and what it was like growing up in Colombia.
I was born in a small town called Salamina, which is in the state of Caldas, known for its beautiful architecture. I was brought up in Manizales, the capital of Caldas state, from a very early age. I never went back, so I like to say I am from Manizales—that’s the place where I belong. I have an older brother who lives in Manizales.
My childhood was pretty normal. I didn’t like playing with Barbies and dolls, which were very popular among my friends. Instead, I enjoyed dancing with my cousins and exchanging shoes, earrings and dresses. I liked to travel to my mom’s hometown and get together with all my cousins, grandparents, uncles and aunties. So many people! So much fun!
What inspired you to do the work you’re doing now?
I grew up around many factors that pushed me to where I am and who I am. My dad was a public prosecutor for many years and relocated multiples times, which is why I ended up being born in a town where none of my parents had family. He also became a judge for the last years of his career. My mom’s family is from another town in the east of Caldas, which means that for many years I spent my holidays there, surrounded by mountains, coffee crops, green landscapes and herds of cows walking across the town to be milked.
I should say that in Colombia, the closer you are to the regions and small towns, the more you know about real problems. You can easily live in the capital without noticing that there is a conflict in your country. I guess this applies to many countries where people can choose to stay inside bubbles and not see farther. I did things differently. I was always curious about my dad’s cases and decisions, as well as life in the countryside. I grew up being aware of Colombians’ reality and how lucky I was, so I fell in love with the possibility of speaking out on behalf of others. I studied social communication, and when I had to choose a specialization, I chose communication in conflict, which is basically the role that communication plays when there is a conflict and how to solve it. Since then, I have been sticking to NGOs and international organizations, working with people in vulnerable conditions of living.
How have things changed for better or worse in Colombia in the past five to 10 years?
Several things have improved. Colombia itself is getting to a better place every day. One thing for sure is that it is much safer than 25 years ago. However, Colombia is a very diverse country, and governments have many different challenges. We still have to work hard if we want Colombia to become an equal, fair and safer country for future generations.
What is something you wish people knew or understood better about Colombia?
After three years living abroad, I believe people need to understand that Pablo Escobar* was not a hero, and every time you imply such thing, you are actually ignoring all the victims of the most painful moments in Colombia’s history. As a society, we are still working to get over it. And of course, the classic joke about if we brought cocaine to an event—that is not a good ice-breaking question. The truth is that most Colombians do not use it, have not tried it and have never seen it aside from television or newspapers. I have to admit that I get less of these sorts of questions now, since international media has been showing the great progress my country is having.
*Pablo Escobar was a Colombian drug lord, who by the mid-1980s controlled as much as 80 percent of the cocaine entering the United States and was one of the wealthiest criminals in history. For a time, he played a role in Colombian politics and garnered public favor, especially amongst the poor, by funding a number of social programs and pouring money into infrastructure. However, he was also a brutal killer and was facing extradition to the United States for his crimes. He unleashed a wave of violence that saw thousands of people tortured and killed. Escobar himself was shot and killed in 1993 while trying to escape from impending capture by Colombian authorities.
If someone was visiting Colombia for the first time, where would you tell them to go?
Colombian cloud forest
Colombia is immensely diverse. We have the mystery of the jungle, the beauty of the mountains, the smell of the coffee, the peace of the valleys, a seven-colored sea and cloud forests. I am sure in Colombia you will find your own little corner of happiness. Something unique and special in Colombia would be staying in the coffee region composed of three different states: Caldas, Risaralda and Quindío. The landscape is magic! Think of a huge coffee rug covering the mountains with little farms producing it where you can taste a very fresh Colombian coffee.
If you feel more adventurous, the Amazon would be a great stop. Let the monkeys jump around you, enjoy the silence of the river or just take a kayak and get into the jungle. You do not need to worry, it is completely safe to travel around Colombia, even to the Amazons. However, you should know that since we signed the agreement of peace, you will be even safer. I promise you will be surprised to see what you were missing.
Are there any special traditions in your country or hometown?
Something particular would be Christmas time—we really take it seriously. We start preparing the cities and houses with lights, bells and trees from the middle of October or beginning of November, and it could go until the end of January. The whole country gets in a special mood in this period. There is nostalgia and happiness at the same time around every corner. Big cities become empty because people like to get together in small towns or in the countryside. Traditionally speaking, nine days before Christmas we pray the Novena, and as far as I know, only Colombia, Venezuela and Ecuador do this. Whole families and friends meet to pray, sing Christmas carols and eat. Most of the time, people participate in singing and playing different instruments.
Today, the Novena is a social event, a great excuse to see all your loved ones, talk about the current year and wish each other the best for the coming one. Being abroad without a Colombian Christmas three years in a row has made me understand that Christmas really means something big to us, something special and unique. It is a break in our worries, a stop in our overloaded daily life, a moment to remember the ones that are gone and surely a moment of gratitude.
What do you like to do in your free time?
Lately I have really gotten into knitting. I am a super beginner, though. Generally speaking, I use my spare time to visit new places in the city I am living in. The more I visit, the faster I can feel at home.
What is your favorite food?
I love strong flavors, so probably Asian and Indian food.
What is your favorite TV show?
I don´t watch TV. I don´t have a TV. However, I am watching “House of Cards,” “Orange is the New Black,” “Black Mirror” and “How to Get Away with Murder” on Netflix.
Have you ever been to the United States before?
Yes! When I was 14 years old, I got a 15-day trip as a gift for my 15th birthday. I went as a part of an excursion with 30 other girls. It also included a cruise to the Bahamas.
What countries/places have your traveled?
I love traveling, and I have been lucky enough to manage to do it without being a rich person. Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Panama, United States, Australia, France, Portugal, Italy, Spain, Hungary, Czech Republic, Austria, Germany, Slovakia, Netherlands and Belgium. I have lived in Colombia, Panama, Australia, Portugal, Hungary and now Belgium. It has been awesome!
What do you aspire to be or do now and in the next few years?
After so much traveling, I am looking forward to studying for a master’s in international communication and going back to humanitarian work.
About the Author
Katie Allie is a West Virginia native who holds degrees in English and elementary education. A teacher by trade, she spent years in a classroom before branching out as a travel consultant and writer. With five continents under her belt and an affinity for noodle soup, it should come as no surprise that she loves to write about food and talk adventure. She may be reached at hello@acrossthelinetravel.com, and you can read more about her adventures at www.wvexecutive.com/category/executive-exclusives.
