By Katie Allie
These are my stories from the road and hard-won guidance from a thoughtful traveler. If I’m making you curious about getting lost and finding the good stuff in this great big world we all share, then I’m doing something right.
The most unique American city I’ve found in all my wanderings is, hands down, New Orleans. The architecture, the people, the music, the history, the cuisine—it’s like I’m in another country and I don’t even need my passport! I have fallen in love with New Orleans a few times over now, and I want to suggest it as your next potential destination if you’re exploring what’s in our own backyard. To help with your planning, I’ve asked three of my friends who live and work in the Big Easy for their suggestions on what to see, eat and listen to while you’re in town. I’ve thrown in a couple of my own suggestions, too. All of us know how to have a good time, so take note.
Your Guides to New Orleans:
- Robin, a registered nurse
- Libby, a native West Virginian and chief resident for the Tulane-Ochsner Pediatric Residency Program
- Emily, a second grade teacher and practicing vegan, so her dining picks are vegetarian and vegan-friendly
I’ve also noted with an asterisk* locations that receive a mention from more than one friend, and I’ve done all the hard work of linking locations for you.
In your opinion, what makes New Orleans unique?
A typical scene near Bourbon Street
Robin: New Orleans is an enchanting and romantic city. There’s a history here unlike anywhere else in the country that makes you wonder what it was like a century ago. The architecture is a big part of what invokes that curiosity.
Libby: One of my favorite things about New Orleans is how I can drive home from work on the same route every day and still find something new and beautiful I never noticed before. It could be a colorful shotgun house on one of the side streets, the oak trees lining a main avenue, a marching band practicing for a parade or a new restaurant I’m overdue to try. Being from West Virginia, I’m proud to say I know what it is like for a city to have friendly residents, and New Orleans is another city with residents who welcome visitors from all around the world with a smile and a “good morning.”
Emily: The way you can be swept up in the magic of a day. I’ve gone out to run an errand or go to a coffee shop to get some work done and 10 hours later wondered how I ended up where I landed. A simple bike ride to the neighborhood coffee shop could lead to seeing a flyer that leads you to a pop-up brunch at a record store, someone’s backyard or an impromptu stroll in one of the beautiful city parks or cemeteries, and you never know when you will run into a parade!
When do you think is the best time to visit New Orleans?
Robin: The fall. Hurricanes are unlikely, and it’s not super hot.
Libby: This really depends on what you like to do for fun. As Mardi Gras is soon approaching, I’d have to say this is one of my favorite times of year. Contrary to how it is often stereotyped, Mardi Gras is for adults and children. There are about two weeks of parades leading up to actual Fat Tuesday, with various Krewes rolling each night. If Mardi Gras sounds too overwhelming, I would say visiting in the spring or fall are both great as well. In the spring, we have all sorts of fragrant and beautiful blooms. The weather is usually warm but not too hot, with a lot of outdoor activities. In the fall, again the temperature is great for outdoor dining and drinking or walking in one of our parks or nature preserves. I would say visiting New Orleans from June through the first part of September can be very hot and humid.
Emily: In the spring after Mardi Gras. I am so excited to live here between March and May when the flowers are blooming and before the weather heats up too much.
If someone is visiting you but they’ve already experienced the big tourist traps like Bourbon Street and Café du Monde, where would you take them?
Robin: Parkway Bakery* for po’boys and a picnic in City Park*. Option B would be a walk through the Bywater, Crescent City Park and Bacchanal for music and great drinks. Algiers Point is a really cool neighborhood across the river, and you can take a ferry across.
Libby: One of the first things we would do is have brunch—a few favorite places include Dante’s Kitchen—we’d get there when they open to have an Applewood smoked bacon cinnamon sticky bun before they sell out—Coulis, Surrey’s*, Satsuma and The Ruby Slipper. After this, we may go for a walk in Audubon Park, City Park* or attend a festival. One of the great things about New Orleans is there is always a festival. I’ve heard there are more festivals than there are days in the year.
Emily: Option A: Bike through the Marigny. Stop for breakfast at Satsuma* and junk store shop on Dauphine Street, continuing on into the Bywater. Play on the musical architecture at the Music Box Village, check out—from a respectful distance as these are private residences—the steamboat and Make It Right houses and take in the view of the Mississippi River. Head back to the Bywater and grab coffee at Solo Espresso, a crepe at The Crepe Place, a glass of wine at Bacchanal* or Faubourg Wines or lunch at my absolute favorite restaurant, The Sneaky Pickle. From there you could sift through records at Euclid Records, and, if you’re lucky and it’s the second Saturday of the month, browse the vendors’ wares at the Piety Street Market. If you have room, grab a slice at Pizza Delicious, haul your bike up the Rusty Rainbow and leisurely bike through Crescent Park back to the French Quarter.
Option B: Bike up Esplanade Ave all the way to City Park*. There are so many awesome options here. Check out whatever is on at the New Orleans Museum of Art, stroll through the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, take in the abundance of New Orleans’ natural beauty at the Botanical Gardens or just bike among the breathtaking live oaks and bird/turtle/people watch. Head over to Pearl Wine Co. for beer or wine and snacks to go and enjoy them anywhere along the bayou—just watch out for the fire ants. Make your way back to Esplanade and get lost in the lesser-known, sprawling Saint Louis Cemetery #3. Enjoy a well-deserved dinner at 1000 Figs, Lola’s or Liuzza’s by the Track.
What is your favorite place to grab a drink?
Libby: For those who want to be in the French Quarter but not necessarily on Bourbon street, Frenchman Street* is where the locals often go for live music, outdoor markets, good food and everything else associated with New Orleans. Often you can join in on a second line celebrating a wedding, birthday or just because. For return visitors and first-time visitors alike, one of our favorite places is Bacchanal Wine*. It’s basically like sitting in your best friend’s backyard with good weather, wine, food and live music. Also, Bar Tonique*, which is kind of on the cusp of the French Quarter near Louis Armstrong Park and Delachaise on Saint Charles, is great for sitting outside, and you have to get the goose fat fries! Also, Ale on Oak and its sister, Oak Wine Bar. My favorite dive bar is The Mayfair Lounge, which is cash only and has a great jukebox and awesome decorations.
Emily: Bar Tonique*, Mimi’s in the Marigny, Cafe Henri or Cure.
What is your favorite weekend brunch spot?
Robin: Atchafalaya* in Uptown, reservations recommended; Live Oak Cafe in Uptown, which has live music; Cake Cafe in the Bywater; Surrey’s Café and Juice Bar*; Biscuits and Buns on Banks or Elizabeth’s in the Bywater.
Emily: There are so many pop-ups! South of Eden, Midnight Noodle and The Pepper Lantern backyard speakeasy, just to name a few. Also Cherry Espresso, Breads on Oak, Satsuma* and Carmo all hit the spot after a night of reveling.
Author’s note: If you’re out strolling on Magazine Street*, don’t miss a stop at District Donuts, Sliders & Brew. Their Red Beans & Rice donut blew my mind! Go anywhere that also features live music—you may well find yourself marching around the dining room waving a napkin over your head to the tune of “When the Saints Go Marching In.”
What is your favorite spot for Louisiana-style cooking?
Libby: Upperline—the lady on the phone when you call to make a reservation, who I think is the owner, can be a little brash, but when you meet her in person she is quite the character. Also, Atchafalaya*, Cafe Adelaide and Jacque Imo’s, which is a little touristy and always crowded, but I highly recommend the alligator cheesecake.
Emily: Saint Roch Market has a little bit of everything your heart desires. The Parkway Bakery* boasts that their po’boys are the best in the city.
What is your favorite shopping spot?
Robin: Strolling on Magazine Street*.
Libby: Magazine Street* has art, antiques, clothing and my favorite t-shirt store, which is Storyville. I also like a shop called Scriptura, which has beautiful stationary, journals and writing tools.
A street musician in New Orleans
What is the best place to hear good music?
Robin: Preservation Hall, the Bourbon O or Fritzel’s. Frenchman Street*—The Spotted Cat is the highlight of the street in my opinion; St Claude Avenue, Hi Ho Lounge* or The Allways Lounge and Theatre.
Emily: One Eyed Jacks in the Quarter for rock and roll shows and dance nights; the Hi-Ho Lounge* on Saturday nights with the legendary DJ Soul Sister spinning tracks and Three Muses for a laid back night of music and delicious cocktails. I can’t say I have a favorite spot because there is music everywhere, and it will find you.
Author’s note: The Hi-Ho Lounge* is like a funkadelic disco party with your hip grandma spinning tracks in your friend’s basement. I’d also suggest just walking down the street and seeing what catches your ear.
What do you recommend families do?
Robin: An alligator tour, a Steamboat Natchez boat ride or Mardi Gras World.
Libby: Go for snowballs at Hansen’s; check out the Audubon Zoo, where my favorite is the orangutan who is sometimes seen reading a magazine, and the Aquarium or Insectarium. City Park* is another fun place to be outdoors and has a mini golf course.
Emily: Pack a lunch and play on the Tree of Life in Audubon Park*. Check out a family event at the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and enjoy their modest but impeccable collection of southern art. The Audubon Insectarium* is fascinating for both kids and adults.
What else do you recommend as a resident of New Orleans?
Scenes from the Mardi Gras Indian parade
Robin: Definitely check out parades and festivals when you’ve booked your trip—there are a lot. If someone feels like crossing the lake and renting bikes, try the Tammany Trace and go to the Abita brewery. Whitney Plantation, also outside the city, is from the slave perspective and is great.
Libby: Any airboat tour is going to be a blast. They’re a little expensive but an awesome experience. Super Sunday is when all the Mardi Gras Indians come out to parade, dance and celebrate in their intricate costumes, which they often spend all year making. St. Patrick’s Day is another huge parade day for us. People on floats throw cabbage, Irish Spring soap, Ramen noodles, moon pies and, of course, beads.
Emily: Catch the Super Sunday Mardi Gras Indian parade* if you’re in town for St. Joseph’s Day in March!
Author’s note: The Mardi Gras Indian parade* was a highlight of one of my trips to New Orleans. I also had a blast on a bike tour with Confederacy of Cruisers with a group of friends. New Orleans is as flat as a pancake, so I wouldn’t worry too much about a strenuous bike ride.
About the Author
Katie Allie is a West Virginia native who holds degrees in English and elementary education. A teacher by trade, she spent years in a classroom before branching out as a travel consultant and writer. With five continents under her belt and an affinity for noodle soup, it should come as no surprise that she loves to write about food and talk adventure. She may be reached at hello@acrossthelinetravel.com, and you can read more about her adventures at www.wvexecutive.com/category/executive-exclusives.
