By Paige Kocourek
Life has taken my last few months on a whimsical whirlwind of adventures, beginning with marrying my best friend. On June 3, 2023, Eric Udermann and I tied the knot, and on June 5, we embarked upon our month-long honeymoon escapade across the pond. Herein lies our tales on the trail.
France
Tour du Mont Blanc France
With just three small backpacks in tow, Eric and I stepped into the city of love and delectable croissants: Paris, France. Our sleepless flight and jet lag were no match for the euphoric excitement we exuded as we found our way to the hotel before setting off on the cobblestoned streets to immerse ourselves in Paris’s lively culture and history.
If you have yet to go, Paris is a city unlike any other. It plays host to iconic monuments like the Eiffel Tower, Louvre Museum and Notre Dame Cathedral; but one can also escape the crowds down quiet side streets to enjoy un café—the French term for a shot of espresso—or quaint shops and restaurants.
After a few days of wandering the city, we rented a car and began the drive to Colmar, France, which is an enchanting town on the east side of the country. Along the way, we stopped in Reims, France—a town in the region of Champagne where we toured a traditional, active Champagne house and learned about the art of making this famed celebratory beverage.
Upon arriving in Colmar, we were transported into what felt like a medieval village. Being 30 minutes from the German border, there was a fair amount of Germanic influence, although the city had a culture unique in and of itself. We ate food like spätzle, rösti and pretzels, but also appreciated the regionally traditional foods such as tarte flambées—a dish resembling flatbread, but with a thinner and more pastry-like crust.
Colmar resides within the Alsace region of France. Alsace is known for its wine, so Eric and I visited local vineyards along with the many other fairytale-looking towns the entire region is also known for. After a few days, we were ready to continue our adventure down to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie.
This small village in France, accessible only by car, was my favorite stop on our month-long European tour. Not only is it picturesque and set at the foot of the Verdon Mountains, but it is also minutes away from the Verdon Gorge—an epicenter for aquatic lovers. We chose to travel through the gorge by kayak and found our mouths gaping at the beauty of the jagged cliffs surrounding us as we paddled through the bright turquoise water. We never wanted to leave Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, but more incredible places awaited our arrival.
Our next stops included Grasse—the perfume capital of the world; Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer—stunning, colorful towns in the French Riviera; Monaco—a small country known for its infamous Monte-Carlo casino, shopping centers and luxurious living conditions; and finally, Chamonix—a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts and the starting point for our next big undertaking.
Chamonix served as our jumping-off point for the Tour du Mont Blanc, a world-famous hiking trail circumnavigating the Mont Blanc Massif for approximately 112 miles through France, Italy and Switzerland. Eric and I wondered what we had gotten ourselves into as we began our trek in the early hours of the morning and immediately found ourselves ascending into the depths of the Alps. We were to spend 10 days on the trail traversing through the mountains and small villages, climbing through passes and crossing snow-laden trails.
Soon we became enthralled with our journey and the splendor surrounding us every step of the way. We spent each night in refuges, which are charming, hostel-like stays where you share meals and exchange life stories with other hikers on the Tour du Mont Blanc. The refuges are both in villages and deep in the mountains. We met people from across the world and learned their different reasons for trekking. Some stories were inspirational and some were comical. Nevertheless, each person we met had two things in common: the desire to challenge themselves and the desire to marvel at nature’s beauty.
By day 10, Eric and I were reluctant to begin our last day of the trek; we had mixed emotions because we were excited to finish but we were sad to be ending such an unbelievable expedition. After a long hike, we began the descent back into Chamonix with feelings of gratitude for the experience of a lifetime. That evening we celebrated with a clink of beers: Santé—Cheers!
Portugal
São Jorge Castle Lisbon
Then it was off to Lisbon, Portugal. I quickly exchanged my hiking pants for a sundress and my appetite for baguettes for fresh fish. Flying in we noted the views of the ocean, and upon exiting the airplane, we could feel the heat of summer.
Eric and I navigated the metro and then walked the rest of the way to our stay. After settling in and admiring our view of the Sea of Straw off the terrace, we visited a highly praised restaurant called A Cevicheria, recommended to us by two friends and Lisbon locals we met on our trek. I devoured the tuna while Eric enjoyed the octopus. We finished with a glass of Port, a dessert wine made in the Douro Valley region of Portugal. Our time in this historic country was off to a great start.
The following day, we meandered through the seaside city where we discovered the São Jorge Castle. This castle served as an important part of history and has had a presence in the city for hundreds of years. We continued exploring as we strolled up and down the city’s infamous hills.
All of the walking created an appetite like none other, which led to a stop at the TimeOut Market. A quick Google search of things to do in Lisbon and you will find this market at the top of the list. Tourists and locals alike can be found, mouths watering, choosing cuisine from dozens of restaurants and bars. Visitors can find some of Lisbon’s best dishes here and try a variety of delicacies under one roof. We filled ourselves to the brim with sushi, a savory veggie burger and the legendary pastel de nata—an egg custard pastry the city is renowned for.
As if we hadn’t filled ourselves enough, we walked back to our stay and prepared ourselves for the food tour that lay ahead of us that evening. We met our guide and embarked upon a culinary voyage across the city. We learned about Lisbon’s history, along with the global influence on local cuisine. We consumed many egg yolk-based desserts, different types of fish and other traditional dishes. Food is an important part of culture, and we relished the opportunity to gain knowledge about Lisbon’s culture through what its residents typically eat.
The next day was less food-oriented and more focused on sightseeing. We took a half-hour train ride to Sintra, which is a small village known for its colorful, storybook-like palace and its quaint winding streets. We started off straight away for the Pena Palace where we roamed the extensive and remarkable grounds. Then it was time to try a travesseiro—a signature Sintra pastry soft as a pillow with fillings such as Nutella or almond cream. After exploring a bit further, it was time to head back to Lisbon where we were meeting up with the Lisbon locals we had met on our trek.
Our friends gave us an address to meet at, and from there, they led us to a small, unmarked restaurant known for its grilled sardines. Sardines are only fished for a few months out of the year, and we visited at the perfect time. These sardines did not resemble the canned sardines I was used to seeing. They were much bigger and exceptionally delicious. We ate and talked into the wee hours of the night.
When Eric and I travel, we prioritize meeting new people and learning their stories. It allows one to expand their own view of the world and take in new ideas and beliefs. We feel blessed to have made wonderful friends throughout our travels.
Another activity we prioritize is the simple act of wandering through a city and letting spontaneity guide our days, which is precisely what we did on our last day in Lisbon. We discovered new foods, stores, views and architecture as we let our feet lead the way. We went to bed with smiles on our faces and excitement in our hearts for our early morning flight to the land of emerald green.
Ireland
Eric and I thought our time in Europe couldn’t get any better; that was until we arrived in Ireland.
From the kind people and comfort food to the cozy atmosphere and striking landscapes, this lovely country immediately stole our hearts. We started off our Irish visit with the acclaimed tour of the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. It was well worth the stop, and afterward, we followed our noses to a pub where we shared toasties and bangers and mash to kick off the last portion of our European journey.
I was fueling up for what lay ahead: a drive to Doolin, a village on the west side of the country near the Cliffs of Moher. It was my first experience driving on the right side of the car on the left side of the road, and on top of that, our car was manual. Once I became a bit more spatially oriented, we were off to the races—and it quite literally felt as if we were racing as I drove us through winding and narrow roads at what seemed the speed of light when in reality, I rarely met the speed limit.
While Eric and I had very little time in Doolin, we made the most of our evening there with a visit to a local pub that featured traditional, live Irish music. Waking up early the next morning, we beat the crowds as we explored the famed Cliffs of Moher. The grandiosity of the cliffs is challenging to describe, as are many of the sights we were blessed to see. The jagged rocks plunge 700 feet down into the depths of the Atlantic Ocean and span a distance of around 9 miles. I found myself staring as I attempted to comprehend and soak in the beauty before me.
We left just in time, as tourists flooded in by the busload. Our next stop was Dingle, Ireland. Along the way, our stomachs led to a brief lunch break in Limerick, Ireland, where Eric and I tried oysters for the first—and probably last—time.
Arriving in Dingle was like cozying up next to a fire with a good book. Dingle is a fishing village full of colorful, inviting pubs lining the streets next to darling shops and the beautiful shoreline. At night, you set out, bundled up in a scarf or jacket, to listen to Irish music or enjoy the stunning scenery that both makes up and surrounds the small village. While we were tempted to curl up and relax in the comfort of the delightful town, Eric and I were excited to set off on a sightseeing expedition the following day. We followed a route called Slea Head Drive, looping roughly 30 miles around the Dingle Peninsula.
A few of our stops along the drive included Ventry Beach for a swim; well-preserved 3,200 B.C. stone structures called the Fahan Beehive Huts; Dun Chaoin Pier for a walk to the water; a short yet incredible hike; and slim roads quickening my pulse each time we passed an oncoming vehicle. We returned to Dingle and spent the rest of our time there eating Irish food, listening for locals speaking the Gaelic language and drinking Guinness while dancing to fiddles, flutes and accordions.
As we made our way back up to Dublin, we spent a night in Kilkenny, Ireland. Kilkenny, like Dingle, was charming and felt like a step back in time. The Kilkenny Castle, for example, was built in 1260 and has had a longstanding history since; we also saw the Saint Canice Cathedral and Round Tower, which is over 1500 years old, and the Smithwick’s brewery, founded in 1710. We treasured every step we took through the streets of Kilkenny.
Early the next morning we drove back to Dublin, quietly reflecting on the endeavors of our past month. With the trip coming to a close, we felt inspired to make the most of our last day in Europe. We walked around Dublin for hours, stopping in bookstores, pubs, churches and gardens. We visited St. Patrick’s Cathedral, where we bore witness to the most intricate stained glass windows we had ever seen. We also experienced traditional Irish dancing, and Eric even got pulled in to join in a jig himself. The day passed far too quickly, but we reveled in the extraordinary opportunities that had arisen over the past month.
Just as we had started our journey with three small backpacks in tow, we boarded the airplane back to the States with happy hearts and a tinge of nostalgia for the end of this adventure but pure excitement for the beginning of a life together as husband and wife.
